Planes, trains, and some overnight accommodations require reservations, so today I finished that up. The downstream effect of all that is that it locks in some important decisions, like the actual stages of the route and any rest days I wanted to work in.
An important thing to remember for me is the PURPOSE of this trip. Although I am looking forward to meeting new friends and enjoying the beauty of Portugal, this trip is not a touristy trip for me. I am seeking more of a mental/physical/spiritual challenge – testing my determination and fitness (my daughter might call it “grit”) as opposed to a cultural/sight-seeing trip. I’ve done many trips just to see the sights, and I will do many more I hope, but successfully walking this Camino will be more of an affirmation — a confidence re-builder.

I learned this about myself 10 years ago when I hiked the Napoleon route from France to Santiago: when solo hiking, one’s tribe will establish itself, grow, shrink, and dissolve as one moves through the Camino. It’s natural and should be accepted with grace. This attitude allowed me to care deeply and forge lasting friendships with several groups of hikers with whom I walked, but hold these connections lightly so that I could remain self-reliant and not form an unhealthy dependence on other travelers. Along “the way” it’s easy to attach to a group or a shepherd figure like a remora clings to a shark (or as the Japanese might say, to become “Kingyo no unko” (goldfish poop 🤣). The goal is to find balance between camaraderie and fear-based over-dependence. Of course, these are my own, personal goals, I don’t suggest this for anyone else and if I were hiking with a travel buddy, my intention would be completely different.
Ok, enough philosophical musings… back to the realm of the practical.
Reservations include:
Airline: Flying United (from DIA thru Newark) to Porto. Return flight from Madrid, with another layover in Newark.
Train: the Santiago airport is undergoing some runway renovations, and will be out of commission on my travel days, so I’ve reserved a spot on a train to Madrid.
Accommodations: I’ve booked overnights in Porto, Ponteverda (for a rest day), Santiago, and Madrid. That covers the most critical stays where the crowds of tourists and other pilgrims are likely to be the most impactful.
I have packed and repacked my backpack a bajillion times. I’m probably going to need a garage sale to deal with all the alternative gear that I collected and decided NOT to take.

My biggest insecurities right now revolve around rain and cold since I’ll be traveling during April (a “shoulder” season). My first camino had one particularly miserable night due to an unheated albergue so I am taking some precautions this time – and taking some risk as well. Let me explain.
I’m wearing trail runners to lessen weight on my legs, ankles, and feet. Last time I wore sturdy leather hiking boots and I think they contributed to the development of some critical shin splints that nearly sabotaged my trek. So, lighter footwear it is, but that could lead to cold, wet feet. I’m taking some chemical foot warmer inserts to combat that issue. Same thing for hands… I’m taking the type of hand warmers typically used by skiers. These should help for cold nights so I can sleep comfortably.
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The risk to which I referred is about my jacket. I’m trusting 3-4 layers of Marino wool, a light outer (waterproof) jacket, and some SITKA brand (outdoor gear) pants to stay warm and dry. I’m hoping the jacket is heavy enough to keep me warm. I’m balancing that risk with the desire for a lighter outer jacket. I am less worried about time on the trail where movement will warm me up, and more concerned about sleeping warmly. My base layer of Marino wool is the key.
Speaking of sleep, I’m taking a bed liner and a down quilt, not an ultralite sleeping bag like I did for my first Camino. I hate the feel of ripstop nylon, but that’s what ultralite sleep gear usually involves. So I’m taking a nice cotton bed liner and wearing my base layer as pajamas. Still debating about treating the quilt/liner with chemical bug repellant in defense of bedbugs, but I have time to think about that. If I do use it, it will just be on the lower half of my bedding since those are the areas most susceptible to bites and farthest from my face.
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Oh! I almost forgot an important reservation that I made for Rocky. He’ll be spending the two weeks with his buddies at Camp BowWow. He loves the staff there and they know him well. He’s boarded with them several times and goes to doggie daycare every Friday, so I am confident he’s in good hands. My daughter will also send her dog Rudy (my Rocky’s best buddy) to daycare several times so Rocky has the familiarity of hanging out with him while I’m away.

Ok, so I guess that’s the update.
Buen Camino! Ultreia!
Cheers, V-

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